Thursday, December 24, 2009

Christmas Nostalgia and Noshing

Katrina and I are spending Christmas Eve in Rangamati—a small, touristy town on the shores of Lake Kaptai. I feel a bit lonely, even with Kat here. I miss home. I finished reading My Antonia by Willa Cather last night and shed a tear over her descriptions of sunflowers and prairie grass.


I miss Mom and Dad. About this time of year we would be dealing with either re-setting up the Christmas tree that fell over (probably Dad’s fault for being in such a hurry and cutting it wrong) or trying to find that collection of Christmas ornaments that is SOMEWHERE in the basement—“Kat, did you get rid of that box? I don’t understand where it went. It was here last year…”


And I miss food. I dream of the year-old turkey that Margaret gave Mom. In my memory, it tastes amazing. Homemade mashed potatoes (with some Philadelphia Cream Cheese—just like Robyn Brown makes) with gravy. Relish trays with baby pickles and pickled beets; throw on some olives for an Italian flair. Homemade biscuits and some pumpkin pie. Heck, even the cranberry jelly still shaped like the can. I crave it all.


Food occupies my mind and memory now. In the last two days I have lost all hope of learning to eat Bangladeshi food. Or, I should say, my stomach has raised a white flag. Every thought of a meal outside my home sends my stomach into spasms. I lose my appetite. In our hotel restaurant, I look frantically through the small menu and find no relief—there are no steamed vegetables! The “poached” eggs are fried in oil. I couldn’t get fresh fruit for breakfast. Yes, I thought about the cucumber and tomato “green salad,” but there’s no telling how the veggies were washed—and I’ve made that mistake before and paid for it all night.


If someone wants to make a lot of money, or simply wants to increase tourism in Bangladesh, then I suggest they start with hotel food. Not just the quality of food or the cooking methods, but the whole orientation. I was told last night that I couldn’t have desert unless I ordered it in advance. My lack of Bangla and the waiter’s lack of English did not permit me to delve any further into understanding this matter. All I could think was “How do I know at the beginning of a meal that I will want desert at the end?” The same lack of logic applies to “in advance” when it means a few hours or days ahead of time. Either way, I suppose that not getting that ice cream after my lackluster meal made my quest to lose some weight before Hawaii a little easier.


Because, as you may have guessed by now, I am going to eat my heart out when Kat and I meet up with Mom in Hawaii in mid-January. I dream (seriously—I am not kidding here) of the salad bars I will encounter and befriend. Our co-worker Jill recently went back to the U.S. for winter break. She said before she left she planned to get naked and roll around in the salad bar at her local Whole Foods. I haven’t heard from her in a few days, so it’s possible she’s sitting out a jail term for that stunt. But I understand her motives wholly. Anyone who has lived in Bangladesh for more than a few days will understand that the desire for something fresh—not fried, not oily, not over-cooked—can lead one to some pretty strange cravings and behavior.


So for now, I will think happy thoughts of family, home, and food. Of relish trays and gravy boats. Of Dad demanding the turkey breast and Mom dishing up some more mashed potatoes (because Christmas is the one time cholesterol doesn’t count). Of Katrina unbuttoning that top jean button and saying “maybe I'll start exercising this year.” Good thoughts of my family and our Christmas fodder.


Happy Christmas!

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Step by Step Sari

Katrina and I were invited to a wedding, so we decided to wear saris. We had never put on one of these long, flowing pieces of cloth before. Luckily, our neighbor Sangita (Sari Master from Nepal) lent us a hand.





















1. Put on your petticoat and sari top. These custom-made pieces are worn under the sari, preventing immodesty and flashing of people. Relish the fact that this is the one time you are able to show your belly in Bangladesh--and still be socially acceptable. Break into a belly dance if the mood strikes you; however, do this only in the privacy of your home.






















2. Find someone who knows how to specially wrap the sari around you. As an American from Kansas, you will have no clue how to ever replicate this delicate art.

















3. Make sure your pet cat is placed in a secure, locked room. Otherwise he may claw or pee on your sari. He thinks it is a play thing. Little does he know that it is not a giant green and blue snake--it is your ticket to being accepted as a legitimate foreigner.






















4. Stand still while the knowing Sari Master continues to wrap you. Yes, you feel like you have been standing in the same spot for a very long time. And you can't understand how there is any more cloth to wrap. Keep your mouth shut and your body still--the Sari Master knows.






















5. Remind yourself to wear deodorant the next time the Sari Master wraps you.






















6. Do not shriek when you are pricked by safety pins for the fifth time. The pins hold your sari--and your pride--in place.






















7. Try not to shiver too much as your skin tingles with excitement at being free for the first time in months.






















8. Ask yourself again, "How on earth am I gonna do this when I am in the United States--without Sari Master--and want to wear a sari?!?" Refer to step number 2.






















9. Tell the Sari Master "but that fold looked fine." Prepare to be met with a "stupid foreigner" look.






















10. Say, "Damn, I look good!" You are now sari-d. Within the next hour you will look like a crinkled, wilted, stepped-on flower. So revel in your moment of sari hotness. Or dream of when you can finally take this thing off.

For full documentation of the "sari-ing": Picasa Web Album

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Carbonara in...Bangladesh?!?!

Not made with pancetta...but with something like it.

I got the "something like it" from a guy who knows a butcher in the capital city (8 hours away). Got the parmesan from our local grocer, Mr. Moonshine. (Yes, that's really his name). And thank goodness we can readily get eggs and spaghetti here.

Kat and I chowed down on 3 bowls each. So good for the fact that we have been without it for so long--and thought we would never eat it here!!!

Though this carbonara is still not as good as Ray Streeter's...

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Halloween--Deshi Style

If you can do Halloween in Bangladesh--you can do it anywhere!

Calvin, Zelda, Fritz, and I used our brain power and creativity to make decorations from whatever materials we had in our apartments. We decorated all day so that everyone could dance the night away in a ghoulish atmosphere. A super fun time!












Decorating with muslin grocery bags, chalk, old pillows, and furniture!




















































Creepy monster food


















"Monster's Cage"































Katrina and Sangita--twins separated at birth and reunited in Bangladesh!



















I went as Betty Boop!













Dancing the night away...

Monday, November 9, 2009

Office Space

Some tidbits from my work diary:

11/8/09

9:00 AM
Workers are currently re-decorating the area outside of my office. They disconnected our internet in the process, making it very hard to work on a Sunday morning. Hmmmm…work...

3:00 PM
Working in a co-worker's office. The workers are using a blow torch in the crawl space in my office. It smells like plastic melting. Not in the mood to be in the path of an explosion.

11/9/09

The drilling, sanding, and sawing continues. As a co-worker said, the construction noise is now in stereo! The building going up outside my window has now almost completely obstructed my view of the palm trees--my one spot of green in this concrete landscape. Soon I will be in darkness. The only good thing is--once they finish the building next door, the pounding will stop…right?

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Bangladeshi Burritos

No, we don't have tortillas here in Bangladesh. But we DO have parathas--a sort of flat bread. And our friendly neighborhood grocer Mr. Moonshine (yes, that is really his last name) provides us with kidney beans and olive oil. I get Australian colby cheese at Khulshi Mart grocery store. And the cukes, onions, garlic, and tomatoes are widely available in veggie markets here.

Here's the recipe for "Bangladeshi Burritos":
  1. Saute some chopped garlic and onions in olive oil, then add canned kidney beans (with liquid).
  2. Add some spices (coriander, chili, etc.) and some salt and cook for about 20 minutes. Add water if necessary.
  3. Meanwhile, throw some ready-to-heat parathas in a toaster oven (I like the Tava brand at Khulshi Mart. DO NOT USE frozen parathas--they will only melt and make a big mess). Cook at 175 Celsius for about 5 minutes (until they start puffing up).
  4. Chop up the cukes and tomatoes and shred the cheese.
  5. Throw it all together and ENJOY!
At some point I think that Marguerite, Matt, and Jalene devised this delicious treat--thanks to them for their brain power and good taste!

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Wash Day




I took these photos back in August while on a field trip.

This was alongside a very busy and dusty road.
Look at those bright whites!

Saturday, October 10, 2009

When it rains in Bangladesh... it floods

Friday night we had torrential rains. The monsoon season came late this year, and is still reminding us that it is not finished yet. I woke up to lightening and thunder and thought I was back in a classic Kansas storm.

Fatema Haque, Access Academy teacher, took a photo of the aftermath at our temporary university campus around 8:30 Saturday morning:

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Fair Trade Reunion in Mumbai: A Visit to MarketPlace Handwork of India

It’s not often that a job places you in Bangladesh, halfway around the world from home (Kansas, USA). Even rarer is the chance to visit face-to-face with the women in Mumbai, India who make up a grassroots organization that you have admired for years. Add to this the alignment of your vacation dates with the visit of the organization’s founders, and your good providence provides you with a trip that is fun, educational, and inspiring.

I first learned about Marketplace Handwork of India (MPI) in 2001 as a Women’s Studies student at Kansas State University. Inspired by the organization’s mission and model, I volunteered with a women’s weaving cooperative in Guatemala. Upon graduating, I joined Equal Exchange, a fair trade worker-owned cooperative near Boston, Massachusetts. Over time I met and maintained contact with Pushpika Freitas, founder of MPI, seeing her at fair trade events and interviewing her for an article in 2007. Reading, thinking, and writing about a pioneering group, however, cannot compare with visiting the organization itself, as my sister and I did this past September.

We caught Pushpika a few days into her Mumbai trip. She was the most gracious of hosts, despite lingering jet lag and a hectic schedule. Delphine and Nooreen of SHARE managed our visit details, arranging housing, transportation, and activities—leaving us with the sole responsibility of showing up. What an amazing team!

To begin our visit, we headed to the main workshop space in Santa Cruz with Pushpika. The empty space was soon bustling with designers, fabric dyers, and SHARE employees—all ready to prepare the spring collection for production. Katrina and I were happy to stay out of the way as everyone got down to work. Soon Prajakta, SHARE Program Manager, arrived and we headed off to the Pushpanjali collective, some 40 minutes from the Santa Cruz space.

Pushpika discusses embroidery with Meeta and Dipika (embroidery supervisors)

Travelling by auto rickshaw to Pushpanjali, we passed slums, high rises, and large trucks belching diesel fumes; the noisy traffic forced our conversation to something akin to screaming. All the same, we enjoyed chatting about Mumbai, Marketplace/SHARE, and our respective work. Arriving at the Pushpanjali collective, we were greeted by over 20 smiling women. We were offered chairs, but opted to sit on the floor like everyone else (a gesture that would leave our American bodies rigid within an hour or so!). A group member applied tika with red and ochre powder to our forehead, and we were given a rose and served hot tea and biscuits.

Meeting with members of the Pushpanjali collective

Prajakta translated as we explained our visit and the women answered our questions about their lives and work. The majority of women have two to three children and live in a room about 10 x 10 feet with their family. Before joining the collective, many women were afraid to leave their homes; now they can travel across town on their own. While many husbands resisted their wives working, the women persisted in showing up at the workshop, sometimes beginning work at 10:00 at night. With Marketplace, the women learned about women’s rights, domestic violence, and have gathered the courage to voice their concerns. One woman mentioned that she now feeds her children—girl and boy—equally.

View of the neighborhood from the Pushpanjali collective

In the afternoon, Katrina and I visited two other collectives with Hasinaji. We weaved between two story houses with narrow walkways and walls jutting out (us tall Americans had to watch our heads!). In the Nirmaan collective, women sewed in a tiny room on the ground floor while on the floor above them, more women embroidered; in the last tiny space available, children had class (and got to practice their English on the visitors!). The Sahara collective required ascending a steep ladder to the second floor, where we were greeted with more smiling women who were delighted to find that my sister shares the same first name as a Bollywood actress.

Children at the Nirmaan collective

Katrina with members of the Sahara collective

Every collective we visited, we were greeted with big smiles and small, sincere gestures of hospitality. Since learning about Marketplace years ago, I’ve dreamed of meeting the women in person. Visiting the groups, it’s clear to see that this organization is truly about empowering women. When asked how their lives had changed since joining Marketplace, one artisan had said, “We have our own money now.” After our visit, however, it is clear that personal income is only one among many benefits that these women gain; in turn, they had so much to share with us.

Nooreen and Katrina join the Dandiya dance (during Navratri Hindu festival of worship and dance)

***
I was struck by the key support that SHARE provides for Marketplace artisans. My visit allowed me to witness the organization’s commitment to grassroots development and women’s empowerment, and I wholeheartedly recommend supporting SHARE through a monetary donation:
http://www.marketplaceindia.org/MPI/Content.aspx?src=Donations.htm

Check out the MarketPlace blog!

See photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/summerbclewis/MarketPlaceHandworkOfIndiaVisit92609#

The article I have written about MarketPlace Handwork of India is titled "'Women Who Needed to Earn a Living Yesterday': Challenging the Global Economy Through Home-based Labor" and will appear in the forthcoming Gender Parties, Global Markets, edited by Dr. L. Susan Williams and Dr. Michelle Bemiller.



Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Meet my Former Roommate

This is my former roommate.

She took up residence in my shower back in July.

She was moved to another bathroom by a brave soul.

Two days later she reappeared in my bathroom.

Then she mysteriously disappeared from my room a few weeks later.

I can't really say that I miss her. But I do wonder to where she has wandered...

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Thailand Part III: One—er, Two (more) Nights in Bangkok

Thailand: August 14-21, 2009

So, for our last full day in Bangkok we had a hearty breakfast of beloved porkers, and headed out to see the Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. We decided to take a boat taxi, rather than work off our breakfast by walking, or by haggling with a tuk-tuk or taxi driver. The boat taxis—or ferries, or whatever they call them—are cheap and run on a pretty regular basis. Although some only stop at certain stops, and we had to catch one back to our stop.


Big toes of the reclining Buddha


I had no idea how big this Reclining Buddha was—it filled a couple of rooms and was at least 2 stories high. It was awesome! I enjoyed all the Thai schoolchildren who were visiting—each one in a faded red top, matching black shoes for girls and brown shoes and socks for boys. A few said “hello” and waved—for the first time on my trip, I felt like I was getting a lot of attention—I felt like I was back at home!


Kat and I headed down to Chinatown where we found a huge area with stores selling lots of things we didn’t need. Then we headed to the Royal Barge Museum. That took a while—ok, about an hour—to find. We couldn’t figure out our ferry stop, then we followed a sign for “museum,” but it turned out to be for a hospital museum. We finally hailed a taxi—metered, to be sure—and he knew where to take us. He was pulled over after an illegal U-turn. He continued haggling with the traffic cop after offering him 20 baht ($0.75). A matter of principal, Katrina and I mused—the cop won’t take bribes! Not so—50 baht did the trick and we drove on. It still took a while to follow a winding, narrow path route to finally find this big building with royal long boats.


One highlight involved food, of course. I walked by a street vendor selling what appeared to be fuzzy bean pods. When this sigh registered in my brain, I asked outloud “Edamame?” and went back to inspect. The vendor gave me a sample. No, it was not edamame, but it was the closest I had come to it in 2 ½ months. So I bought a baggie of it and had a nice, healthy snack. Kat also bought a bottle of coke, but the vendor wouldn’t let her walk away with it. She gestured to a tiny plastic bag, Kat nodded, and dumped the drink in with some ice and a straw. Truly “take away!”


Close encounters of the edamame kind...


"You want that to go?"


Our last supper in Bangkok involved entering a restaurant/hotel from the back: walking down a dark alley, up a set of metal stairs, walking through a second floor lobby--and arriving at a swank spot. The food was fantastic: cucumber and tomato salad, falafel, hummus and chick peas, and baba ganoush. I was happy breaking away from the paad thai...but sad to break away from our Thai vacation the next day.


Fabulous Middle Eastern in...Thailand!


Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/summerbclewis/ThailandAugust21282009#

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Thailand Part II: No shoes...no shirt...no problem.

Thailand: August 14-21, 2009

We heeded the call of the sand, surf, and sun and headed to Ko Samet island. We took a transport package deal, as it was just a little more than hassling with local transport would have been. It took about three hours by bus, a half-hour by mini-bus, and half hour by boat. We had no idea where to stay, so we ended up walking for a while with backpacks in the heat of the sun. While the ocean and palm trees provided a lovely backdrop, hostel shopping was back breaking! Kat and I settled on a little place called The Lost Resort—set back in the hills, about a 5 minute walk from the beach. Kat was happy with A/C and tv. I was just happy to get rid of the backpack.

Kat and I ate lunch at Naga Restaurant—the BLT on homemade whole wheat bread was a welcome addition to our bellies. We walked the beach, swam a bit, and enjoyed the sand in our swim suits. We encountered Matt and Jalene on the beach, and pigged out at dinner at Pudsa Bungalows. They had discovered a little place a bit down the beach with cheaper bungalows, and a practically abandoned beach.

BLT baby!


I took a picture of our dinner too late! Here's what's left of onion rings, grilled beef, paad thai, fried calamari, and green curry.

The next day, I hiked over to the Wonderland Resort to secure a bungalow. It took a while to find, hiking the dusty road with very little shade. It took even longer for someone to show me a room for 500 baht ($15)—I insisted that my friends had secured a bungalow for that price the night before. What I was shown was a musty, dirty place. I got a bit of a sinking feeling, but rather than give up, asked to see something closer to the beach. The place I saw looked much better—a/c, double bed, no grandma’s attic smell. So I bargained the proprietress down to 700 baht a night. (I came to find out later that whoever had bargained with Matt and Jalene the night before wasn’t there and that 500 baht a/c room was a hoax). I had to pay 2 nights to get the special deal—but I didn’t have enough cash. So I had to hike over to the next beach to find an atm. That took a while, and I had to have my coffee break in the meantime. Finally, I paid for the room, and walked back to where Kat was to transfer her over to our new place. All that walking and bargaining was rewarded with a beer and a swim in an ocean almost all to myself.

While staying at Wonderland, I concerned myself only with eating, drinking, swimming, and procuring a massage. I took seriously my co-workers’ orders to RELAX! I spent a lot of time filling my tummy with good food and drink. While all the food on the island was around double the price of the same thing in Bangkok, we ate heartily all the same. The deep fried squid was amazing. (I really hope it was the squid we saw a fisherman catch earlier that day. I just get paranoid that they feed the tourists the frozen stuff!)

The view from our bungalow--not bad!


"Hey, wasn't this on a postcard somewhere?"

I was sad to leave the island, but also ready to exit my relax coma and start using my brain again. Our minibus driver gave us the ride of our lives (I think he’d had a few too many Thai iced coffees that morning)—Kat said she saw the speedometer hit 140 km/hr at one point. I couldn’t see it, but apparently he ran a few red lights. Driving back into Bangkok for 2 nights…I already felt like I was back in Bangladesh traffic.

Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/summerbclewis/ThailandAugust21282009#